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"Driving techniques" lessons of Gary Semix " Chapter 11.
Off road [What nature offers us]
Chapter 11.
Off road [What Nature offers us]
One of the joys (and pains) of the road is obstacles.
In motocross and some types of off road competitions, riders face the same, pre worked elements.
In enduro, natural obstacles are unexpected and unique, riders have to think quickly and learn to adapt to rapidly changing conditions and obstacles looming around every turn.
Because of this, of road is a great way to improve skills.
It stimulates the creative process, promotes a quick and effective search for solutions.
To overcome each type of obstacles trees, rocks, water and other obstacles, there are techniques that will help you cope with them quickly and without problems.
Trees more often than any other elements do not forgive mistakes.
In fact, they are like tall, bark covered stones with branches that can cause great pain with one whipping blow.
And since trees grow almost everywhere, their presence can turn the simplest obstacles into very insidious ones.
Therefore, trees should be avoided.
They are like passive Aikido fighters; if you do not attack yourself, they will not cause harm.
The shortest distance between two points is a straight line.
When trees surround the trail, riders often try to drive as close as possible from them, only to discover how severe the punishment can be for this
Many racers, like Ty Davis, shorten the steering wheel so that they can drive through the trees with less effort.
As you can see in the photo, the distance between them can be quite small.
The photo also makes it clear why you should not spread your elbows
Strong aluminum or plastic protection on the steering wheel is used by almost all forest riders to prevent injuries.
A collision, even at low speed, can break fingers, forearms, wrists, elbows and other bones.
Good protection will also protect the levers
Sometimes a slow ride through the trees can end up being the fastest.
You will lose some time, but it is better to go slowly than quickly, but not for long - to fall, and drive again to the next tree.
Mistakes can take an extremely long time and effort.
”Near the trees, to avoid injury, I press my knees as close as possible to the motorcycle, "says Guy Cooper," I try to direct my socks inside so as not to get caught on anything."
"When you are going to drive through the trees, pay attention to the distance between them," adds Cooper, " If you are not sure that you are passing, it is better to stop.
And if it is impossible to pass, then for sure you can break through and continue the way, taking turns moving the handles”"
Scott Summers develops the topic: "If you are going to drive under a fallen tree, make sure that there is enough space above your head.
If in doubt, it is better to stop and make sure.
You may encounter broken branches and other objects that can lead to injury.”
When driving in a forest area, it is advisable to constantly monitor what is ahead.
Notice that Guy Cooper's eyes are fixed on the trail.
That is why he was able to choose an internal trajectory that is much shorter and less broken
Usually, on rocky areas, it is preferable to stand in the middle position.
The selected trajectory should be as smooth as possible.
It is also necessary to avoid slipping the rear wheel, which can lead to its thorough scattering.
If this happens, it will be extremely difficult to regain control of the device
Quite often, when driving under trees, riders overestimate their height.
It is easy to forget that the helmet is almost five extra centimeters; some riders do not realize that even if the chin is on the tank or seat, when hitting a tree, the head will have nowhere to go.
As a result, you can injure your head, neck, back, or all of it at once.
Riders also often forget that when tilted, the drinking system adds a couple of inches.
Therefore, a rider stuck between a motorcycle and a tree is not unusual.
In addition, it is extremely important to keep an eye on fallen trees (there will be a section below about overcoming trees lying on the ground).
Nothing will send you over the steering wheel faster than hitting a stationary object.
But it is not only the trunks themselves that should be avoided.
"Watch out for branches that can throw you off a motorcycle or hit you like a spear," advises Cooper, " They can be no less dangerous than the trees themselves, but they are less noticeable”"
Professionals advise
Guy Cooper "When I know that I'm going to meet with trees, I always put a narrow steering wheel, less than 30 inches; however, this is the area in which you need to experiment to find your size."
Scott Summers "I wear protection on my forearms and elbows to protect myself from any collisions."
Guy Cooper "If your motorcycle has water cooling, make sure that the radiators, including their edges, are well protected.
This is the best way to avoid damage in case of a collision with a tree."
Ty Davis "In order not to damage the brake pedal in the forest, I will fix a piece of wire between it and the frame."
Larry Roeseler "I always use thick cameras when riding on roots, which lead to punctures as easily as stones."
Since branches are usually found in shaded, sometimes very dark places, it is extremely important to constantly look carefully around.
Where there are trees, there will definitely be their roots.
Remember that the closer you are to the tree, the larger they are.
Unfortunately, the roots may be invisible due to foliage or lack of light.
Small twigs and leaves can create a false sense of security, but one meeting with the roots is usually enough to remember what this is fraught with.
Trees
1.
Beware of roots that can hide under the leaves
2.
Pay attention to low branches that can knock you out of the saddle
3.
When driving through the trees, be sure that there is enough space
4.
Driving under a fallen tree, remember that when you bend over, the helmet and the drinking system will add a few centimeters to you
Stones
It's hard to believe, but a hundred meter section with stones can bring problems for both a rider and a motorcycle no less than a hundred kilometer section of a normal track.
Stones are heavier and harder than other elements of the environment, therefore, they bear more damage even at low speeds.
The stones are notorious for their ability to break machinery and bones; the picture in this photo is all too familiar.
Even small stones at low speed can break the feet, break the mufflers, bend the footrests and brake pedal, deform the crankcase
The stones are complicated by the fact that, unlike most surfaces, they are absolutely motionless.
Depreciation by and large does not know how to react to contact with something that does not want to give in, even if only a little bit.
Let's consider an example.
Sand by its nature is able to absorb a lot of energy.
Therefore, you can jump higher, knowing that when you land, the surface will soften part of the impact.
The stones, at the same time, are more likely to deflect the fork than allow it to soften the blow.
Therefore, most professional racers agree that stones are a delicate matter.
Using brute force alone is a direct path to injury.
In most cases, it is preferable to stand slightly shifted back.
This will slightly relieve the front end and allow the fork to work more efficiently.
In addition, the front wheel and fork will not bounce off obstacles as much as when the front is loaded.
It is necessary to be careful in case of hiding stones.
This 100 kilogram block was covered with moss and covered with a branch.
It will destroy everything that touches it
If there is a fairly smooth trajectory that allows you to ride sitting, still be careful.
In this turn, Ty Davis decided that it was better to pass it sitting, since it would be quite difficult to move his foot over a stone while standing.
Note that when lifting his leg high, Davis does not use the steering wheel as a support
"Try not to strain yourself when riding on rocks," recommends Ty Davis, " this is probably a typical problem, because almost everyone is extremely afraid of falling and therefore they hold themselves very rigidly.
It may seem difficult at first, but let the motorcycle work independently under you.
Most motorcycles, if given their freedom, will cope decently with riding on rocks”"
Another basis is the choice of the trajectory.
In general, the straight path is much easier than the winding one.
Turns will only worsen the work of the suspension and tires, which ultimately complicates the task.
Usually the shortest path is the best, but it all depends on the size of the stones.
As a rule, large stones should be avoided.
They can cause injury to you or damage the motorcycle.
If you have to drive past rocks with a height at or above the footrests, Davis advises " pointing your socks up.
You canot imagine how many people have broken the bones of their feet on objects that they didnot notice.”
In this sequence of photos, Ty Davis decided that the best trajectory is next to a rock, providing a little space to avoid meeting several large stones.
Please note that when approaching a turn, he brakes with the rear brake, and when approaching a stone, he tries to direct his foot up to the right to reduce the risk of injury.
The idea is that if the foot hits a stone in this position, it will bounce off it.
If you point your foot down, it will most likely be squeezed between the footrest and the stone
The shape of the stones also plays an important role.
Sharp ragged edges are usually combined with a flat surface, round stones, respectively, are more slippery - you can judge how a motorcycle behaves on them.
Wet stones are the worst thing you can encounter, because there is no hook in principle.
Since this is a significant problem, most riders tend to avoid the rear wheel slip by keeping their hands away from the clutch lever.
On the contrary, they allow the torque to work its way through the stones.
While the standing position is more preferable, the sitting position can be effective with relatively flat stones and low speed.
It can provide the rear wheel with better grip on inclined surfaces and allows you to lift your feet from the footrests in order to avoid contact with potentially dangerous stones.
However, be careful in deciding where to put your feet.
Both feet should always be kept on the running boards, unless you are forced to push off from the stone or avoid contact with it.
Every time you take your foot off the running board, you partially lose the opportunity to help the suspension work, since the knees are practically useless alone in this regard.
Professionals advise
Guy Cooper " Use the maximum amount of protection to prevent damage to the motorcycle.
The last thing you want is for a stone to tear the frame or bend the rear brake disc."
Ty Davis "When I know that I'm going to ride on rocks, I put a cable on the brake pedal.
This piece of wire, stretched from the edge of the pedal to the frame, will prevent serious damage if I hit a stone."
Guy Cooper "I always use a damper in rocky terrain, it can be no less useful at high speeds."
Ty Davis "On most trips, I recommend using thick cameras, even if you do not plan to meet with stones.
A puncture on the trail can cost a lot of time."
Guy Cooper "If the terrain is really rocky, I will use a sealer instead of a camera, which will protect me from a puncture one hundred percent.
The confidence will allow me to drive as aggressively as I want."
Larry Roeseler "I use a shark fin to protect the rear brake disc.
The shark fin replaces the standard plastic protection, and it is almost impossible to bend it."
Guy Cooper "When driving in a rocky mes however, I use protection on the steering wheel, which covers the levers in case of a fall.
I donot want to waste time on the trail, changing levers."
Starting from a stone is an extremely dangerous occupation, because you are forced to do this exclusively in areas with large stones.
It is more difficult to lower the leg in such situations, at a speed when touching it, it can be sent somewhere wrong.
And the results can be very painful and traumatic.
However, if you are careful, you will be able to survive.
Stones
1.
Look for the best way
2.
Pay attention to stones the size of a ball, which can hit the footboard and damage the foot
3.
Mark the hidden stones
4.
Be extremely collected and avoid aggressive style
5.
Do not allow buks
6.
Install protection on the motorcycle
7.
Avoid sharp stones that can finish off the tire
8.
If possible, keep your feet on the running boards
Overcoming water barriers
Overcoming water obstacles is the most mysterious element of the road because of the surprises lurking under the water.
Rocks, roots, dirt, sand, and even the depth itself make this task very difficult.
The most important thing is to assess the situation.
First of all, you should make sure that the water section can be crossed in principle, which is not always easy.
But here you are the judge.
If you are in doubt about something, try to walk along the ford on foot, look for an alternative or turn around.
The next key factor is the current.
If it is strong, it can easily throw you off the motorcycle, putting you in serious danger.
Many racers underestimate the strength of the current, so if you are not sure, it is better not to try.
Do not go into the water without knowing the ford.
Although it can be difficult to estimate the depth, try to determine the shallowest area.
A wheelie is a good way to stay dry, but remember that water resistance will tend to lower the front wheel.
In addition, you should be sure that the bottom is relatively flat (a hidden stone or log can quickly arrange water procedures for you)
But if you decide that it is safe to cross a water barrier, plan the most direct route through the shallowest water and go forward at a low speed so as not to fill the air intake.
It is best to stand in the middle stance to be ready for getting into a hole, meeting with a stone or other invisible obstacle.
"If the bottom is too rocky, it may make sense to cross on foot next to a motorcycle," suggests Tommy Norton, " This will reduce the risk of tire damage.
In addition, watch out for underwater ruts in places where many riders have already visited”"
Professionals advise
Ty Davis " Make sure that your electrical equipment is completely insulated, otherwise the engine may suddenly stall.
If this happens, it will take forever to start it up again."
Guy Cooper "Use a good crankcase protection to protect the engine from pitfalls."
Ty Davis " Seal the air filter compartment tightly so that water does not have a chance to get into the engine.
I usually treat all the joints with silicone; the holes, if there are any, can be closed with duct tape."
Guy Cooper has some advice in case of a not too deep crossing: “When I know that the water is shallow and there are no stones at the bottom, I prefer to sit with my legs raised as high as possible so as not to get wet.
Dampness is the main cause of blisters, besides, it is not too pleasant to ride in wet motorboats”"
Cooper also has a recommendation for really advanced riders: "If the crossing is narrow, the best option may be a raised front wheel.
This will reduce the splashes that can fill the glasses, and you do not have to worry about encountering pitfalls that can lead to twisting the fork.”
Overcoming water barriers
1.
Look for the shortest and shallowest route
2.
Stand so that with the help of your knees you can react to sudden changes in the bottom
3.
Be afraid of pitfalls, the meeting with which can affect the controllability
4.
Make sure that your electrical equipment is insulated
5.
Be sure that the raised splashes will not get into the air filter
Through the logs
Fallen trees, especially large ones, can look very frightening.
Things like ground clearance, traction and gravity sometimes give the impression that it is impossible to overcome such obstacles.
But in case there is no other way, and you do not want to turn back, there are several techniques.
This log, or to be precise, two fallen trees on top of each other, is about a foot high.
It is very difficult to overcome such an obstacle in the usual way, a blow to a log with the front wheel is equivalent to a collision with a low brick wall.
The wheelie approach, although complex, has the preference of the best riders on its side.
It requires an excellent calculation of actions, a good assessment and considerable skills.
The idea is to drive up to the log at a very low speed and move the front wheel over it.
At high speed, the rear wheel can send you flying when the shock absorber is released
Lift the front wheel just enough so that you can move it over the top of the log.
Notice that Cooper has shifted back.
This allows you to keep the front unloaded and will help absorb some of the shock when the rear wheel hits
Lowering the front wheel
This is the same log, but Cooper comes in from the other side to illustrate how to lower the front wheel.
This should be done very quickly, but there is a trick here, because you will need power to get over the log.
Careful gas control can be effective here, but most riders prefer to slightly squeeze the clutch to lower the wheel, after which the clutch must be released instantly in order to maintain the pace.
At this point, you should avoid scrolling the rear wheel, which can make maintaining control of the device extremely difficult
When the front wheel touches the surface, the rear wheel should already be on top of the log.
Note that Cooper shifted his weight to the level of the rear wing.
This provides a better grip and allows you to avoid falling
The most popular approach is using a fork at extremely low speed.
Carefully working with the gas and clutch, the riders lift and carry the front wheel over the log, making sure that the rear wheel does not get stuck.
In addition, it is necessary to avoid slipping of the rear wheel, for the best hook, keeping the front wheel raised when the rear wheel touches the surface of the log.
Wili should be used at low speed, otherwise you will not be able to raise the front wheel high enough, and if you do, then the rebound of the rear shock absorber will send you through the steering wheel.
Wili also requires a perpendicular approach to the obstacle, because an attempt to move a fallen tree at an angle will only lead to a slip of the rear wheel (The exception is logs with knots from broken branches.
They help to keep the bike on the line and simplify the conquest of such obstacles).
After you have selected the intersection point, make a small fork.
Stand up, shift back, and, working with the gas and clutch, lift the front wheel just enough to carry it over the log.
If you lift it too high, you will lose the pace when the rear wheel hits.
If the front wheel is ideally positioned, it will slide along the top of the log.
Remember that if you raise the wheel not high enough, you can be on the other side of the log before the motorcycle.
Having successfully dealt with the front wheel, get ready to soften part of the impact with your knees and elbows.
Push the steering wheel to direct the movement forward, and take the impact.
You may be forced to close the gas, and if this happens, do not rush to open it again too abruptly.
Wheel slippage, especially on a log covered with moss, will noticeably worsen handling.
When the rear wheel is on top of the log, this is not the end: stay in the standing position until both wheels touch the ground.
Crossing a log at an acute angle
This log is much smaller, about eight inches in diameter, but, nevertheless, it is able to cause trouble with the suspension.
The approach with a fork is often used in such cases, but sometimes you have to drive on such logs at an angle.
This usually leads to an instant slip of the rear wheel and a fall.
But the problem can be solved with the help of V shaped knots, which are a good support
As you can see, Cooper's motorcycle overcame the log at an angle thanks to this very bitch
Note that at this moment, Cooper's motorcycle is almost parallel to the branch, but when the rear wheel hits the log, the tire immediately begins to slide along the trunk
Cooper does not turn off the gas and the wheel slips a couple of feet along the trunk.
For a rider of a lower class, this would have ended in a fall.
Please note that the wheel was on top of the log only due to the meeting with the V shaped knot shown in the previous sequence of photos
The second approach is the use of force.
When it is impossible to move an obstacle, you have to use muscle strength to move the motorcycle.
But to lift the front wheel on a log, the easiest way is to use the power of the engine.
This can be done sitting, standing, or being next to a motorcycle.
The idea is to carefully work with the gas and clutch, place the front wheel on a log, if possible fixing the motorcycle on the crankcase.
After that, it remains only to move the back of the motorcycle.
This is not the most p it's a tall occupation, but it's obviously easier than lifting a motorcycle entirely.
If it's really difficult, ask for help from your friends.
Getting over a fallen tree is a difficult task, but not impossible.
When all your attempts have failed, try to get off the bike and just drag it.
The easiest way is to move the front wheel first, then move the motorcycle forward on the frame guides, and finally lift and move the rear wheel
Regardless of the chosen method, watch out for such things as sharp knots and branches hiding under the leaves, they can lead to injury.
In general, it is desirable that there are no other obstacles near your log.
"Start with small logs, then move on to large ones," advises Ty Davis, " Remember, the larger the log, the lower the speed.
This requirement is determined by the operation of the suspension."
"Try to avoid logs on slopes, it is much more difficult to lift the front wheel there, and handling is worse," adds Guy Cooper, " As a rule, you will fly into a log at too high speed and it will try to send you over the steering wheel."
Although it is easier to make a fork on the rise, it is more difficult to get over a fallen tree.
The obvious solution is to have more speed, but this will only lead to a faster rebound of the rear shock absorber, which even under normal conditions cannot be rated as safe.
Perhaps the only thing that can be done is to move the front wheel and fight for a hook, trying to load the rear wheel.
After you try these techniques several times, you should have a good idea of the behavior of the motorcycle.
Through the logs
1.
Cross the log at the lowest point
2.
Move the front wheel first, then the rear wheel at a low speed
3.
Avoid the bux
4.
Pay attention to the knots
5.
Look for alternative ways
6.
If moving over a log is problematic, ask your friends to help you drag the motorcycle
More about Wili
Although this approach is quite complex, the best riders prefer it.
It requires excellent timing, good evaluation and full control over the motorcycle.
You should drive up to the log at a very low speed, usually up to five miles per hour.
And although it is possible to lift the front wheel at a higher speed, the question is not this, but how the rear shock absorber will behave.
A too strong impact will stop the motorcycle, lead to a too fast rebound, or send the rider over the steering wheel; various combinations are possible.
Thus, the best way to control the rear part is to move the log at a low speed.
You should stay in the middle rear position, this will help to make the wili.
One of the most important points to remember is to choose the safest piece of log, usually the lowest one.
Also, the ground surface should provide sufficient traction: trying to make a wheelie, you can not afford a significant slip of the rear wheel.
The pitchfork should not be too high, you need to raise the wheel just enough to overcome the top of the log.
You should stand slightly shifted back.
This will relieve the front part of the motorcycle and allow you to absorb some of the shock on impact.
Speed selection
What do you mean, fast?
For someone it's 40 miles per hour on a broken straight cross country track, for someone it's full throttle and 100 miles per hour in the Mexican desert.
Let's ignore the miles and hours; in case the speed is higher than the average, the leading racers have prepared some tips.
High speed can bring great joy, but it must be treated with respect.
A few simple changes, such as installing a damper, can add mo
