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Meal
Chef vs computer: real chefs cook according to recipes from artificial intelligence
July 8,
Text: Anastasia Novikova,
photo: Alexander Dogaev; Maria Sauch
Can a computer program come up with a dish of incongruous ingredients, and most importantly, is it possible to eat it?
Three Moscow chefs and the editor of RBC Style participated in the experiment, preparing and tasting dishes according to a recipe from a computer.
The reason for the gastronomic experiment was the appearance at the end of June of the web version of Chef Watson, which is open to everyone who wants to cook, a culinary application for everyone who likes to cook.
The project was launched by IBM together with the publication Bon Appétit.
This culinary service understands food at the molecular level, helps users to choose the ingredients that match each other and is even able to make a recipe from products that do not match at first glance.
However, the creators honestly say that they are ready to accept any advice from users, and fans of cooking should still rely on their experience and taste, measuring the amount of pepper and salt.
The editorial board of RBC Style decided to check whether two hot dishes and a dessert prepared according to a recipe from artificial intelligence are suitable for consumption.
Since we wanted to test the entire gastronomic potential of the new service, we chose for the experiment combinations that may seem strange from the point of view of cooking enthusiasts and even professional chefs.
However, Chef Watson found solutions for how to combine chicken with chocolate and ice cream with garlic.
With these recipes, the editor Anastasia Novikova went to three Moscow chefs who tried to bring Chef Watson's gastronomic fantasies to life.
Dmitry Shurshakov
(chef of the Muesli restaurant):
"It turned out to be such a typical Texas food"
Chef Dmitry Shurshakov, who is able to prepare a haute cuisine dish from everything that is sold in stores, we offered a recipe for chicken with chocolate.
In addition to these ingredients, the recipe included tomatoes, onions, chili peppers, cocoa, chicken broth, spices and a lot of mustard.
"A strange taste combination.
That is, chocolate and mustard, in my opinion, is even interesting.
But they donot go with chicken.
And also in this recipe there are ounces, and spoons, and grams, and some incomprehensible slices, and everything else," Dmitry frowns, but begins to cook.
First, he roasts the chicken, although not in pepper, as Chef Watson suggests.
After the chicken, diced tomatoes are sent to the pan, then green onions.
Dmitry adds broth to the pan and tells about his attitude to culinary computer services and applications.
"I used to treat them well.
There is one professional Foodpiring service, which was made by very competent guys.
This service gives combinations, not recipes.
And then you yourself think about what you should turn the product into, what structure, texture, and so on it should be.
And there is also a well known book "The Bible of Taste", a huge thick book published in English, I also have it.
It also indicates what is combined with what.
Just list the products in alphabetical order."
It takes about 20 minutes to prepare everything, and the ingredients are such that they will certainly be found in the kitchen of the average hostess.
However, the dish does not look too appetizing.
Shurshakov himself refuses to try the cooked food, but shares his impressions about the recipe.
"It turned out to be a typical Texas food.
However, they would have added some corn or beans here.
When I first read the recipe, I immediately realized that it was all created by Americans.
Because only they can use such combinations.
It's like in an advertisement where a blindfolded person is led into a room and sprinkled with flavoring on a dish.
He opens his eyes, and there is garbage.
Here it's the same thing: I threw it, I did it, I mixed it.
This is my personal feeling from the way the recipe is compiled.
If someone wants to cook according to it, go ahead."
A piece of chicken, abundantly filled with "gravy", turns out to taste sour and spicy at the same time.
— Wonot you be offended if I donot finish eating?
- Yes, for God's sake, I wonot be offended.
We were setting up an experiment, and we were not preparing to eat.
If you're going to cook this for a guy, it's better to add corn.
— Yes, this dish is such that he will run away.
- How do you know, maybe he'll like it.
If it is from South America, for example.
Ilya Zakharov
(chef of Zodiac restaurant):
"Bring the dish to mind — and at least enter it in the menu"
We entrusted Ilya Zakharov, the chef of the pan Asian Zodiac restaurant, with another dish.
When asked to give out a combination of tuna and jamon, Chef Watson provided us with several variants of risotto recipes.
We chose one of them, which also included chocolate liqueur, beef broth, jamon, shallots and physalis.
The service offered to prepare cranberry sauce for tuna.
The chef starts with the tuna sauce.
He boils cranberries with sugar, then adds chocolate liqueur and suddenly sets everything on fire.
"This is to completely evaporate the alcohol and eliminate the unpleasant aftertaste," explains Zakharov.
Then, without slowing down, he rubs the berries through a sieve.
And in the next saucepan, risotto is already being prepared.
"The main secret here is to stir to knock out the paste from the rice.
And then the risotto will turn out to be airy, " Ilya comments.
Chef Watson does not specify such nuances.
The last stage is tuna.
Zakharov starts frying it a minute before removing the risotto from the burner.
Chooses medium rare roasting to understand the taste of tuna.
And it holds a piece in the pan for literally half a minute on each side.
Zakharov also chooses the color of the serving plate himself.
He asks the black one to make the cranberry sauce look contrasting.
First, he puts the risotto, sliced tuna, jamon and physalis on top.
It takes about 20 minutes from the start of cooking to the moment of serving.
While waiting for the dish to appear on the table, Zakharov says that he does not believe in the virtual origin of the recipe.
"Computer intelligence cannot identify the ideal ingredients, it was all hammered into the program by a person.
He understands which products are best combined with each other.
If there are more than seven or eight bright ingredients in a dish, it can be thrown into the trash."
The prepared dish looks appetizing.
And the taste does not disappoint either.
I ask Ilya if he did not cheat and did not add something from himself to the recipe?
"No.
I didnot even replace some berries with others.
But if I cooked it a second time, I would gel the cranberries, and make the risotto more airy.
And then at least enter it in the menu, " says Zakharov.
— And what is the cost of such a dish?
— It all depends on the tuna and rice.
- Approximately how much would it be possible to enter in the menu?
— To bring profit to the restaurant, about 2000 rubles.
If you remove the jamon, it will cost 1250, and if you take the tuna cheap, you can serve it for 850.
Anton Kovalkov
(chef of the Fahrenheit restaurant):
"No, this is not the dish that I have dreamed of trying all my life"
We came to the third participant of our gastronomic experiment for dessert.
We decided to entrust the chef of the Fahrenheit restaurant Anton Kovalkov, who is very successfully experimenting with modern Russian cuisine, with chili ice cream.
Moreover, in addition to hot pepper, the recipe compiled by Chef Watson includes garlic and lager.
And grapes and coconut milk turned out to be the most harmless thing that could be added to a couple of ice cream balls.
"In general, the service is cool.
I wouldnot use it myself, but it's a good idea.
But this recipe was stuffed with complete nonsense.
What will come out of this, we'll see now, " Kovalkov concludes and begins to cook.
To make something edible out of "nonsense", the chef decides to cook two versions of ice cream sauce at once: one strictly according to a computer recipe, and the second according to his own culinary logic.
"There is no feeling that someone mixed these ingredients consciously.
On the contrary, I just poked, barely realizing that I was combining it — " Kovalkov shares his impressions of the recipe.
— Based on the ingredients, I would first evaporate the beer to leave only its taste and remove the alcohol completely, and then add grapes.
Then the coconut milk would not curdle.
And in the recipe, you need to mix everything at once."
Anton's own version of the sauce turned out to be lighter and homogeneous in consistency.
And it looks more appetizing.
"Now it remains to put a spoonful of ice cream and pour the sauce over it.
Bams!
Well, you can try it, " smiles Kovalkov.
Let's move on to the tasting.
Anton tries it first.
According to him, the aftertaste is terrible.
"But in principle, the experiment was a success.
You need to look and think, and not blindly follow the instructions.
Maybe this service is worth using if you are looking for some unusual combination," Anton summarizes.
Ilya Zakharov,
Anton Kovalkov,
experiment,
Dmitry Shurshakov,
Chef Watson
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